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HEIC to JPG

HEIC to JPG

Turn Apple HEIC images into lightweight, universally compatible JPEGs.

Drop iPhone HEIC / HEIF photo(s) here

or click to browse • Up to 50 HEIC files

Max 100MB per fileUp to 50 files

How to Open a HEIC File and Convert It to JPG

How to Use HEIC to JPG

  1. 1

    Upload HEIC Photos

    Select one or multiple .heic photos from your iPhone or Mac.

  2. 2

    Set JPEG Quality

    Adjust the quality slider (80-95% recommended) or customize dimensions.

  3. 3

    Download JPEGs

    Save your converted JPEG photos individually or in a single ZIP.

What HEIC to JPG Can Do

  • Universal JPEG Compatibility

    Make iPhone photos viewable on any PC, Android, smart TV, or website.

  • Quality & Compression Tuning

    Adjust JPEG compression quality from 20 to 100 to balance size and clarity.

  • Batch Photo Processing

    Queue up to 50 photos and get them back as one ZIP. They decode one after another, with progress per photo.

  • Complete Privacy

    Personal camera roll photos are processed strictly in-memory.

Tools & Settings Reference

Quality Slider (20 - 100)
Sets JPEG compression quality (85-90% recommended).
Resize
Optional. Scales the photo down, and the JPEG is still encoded only once so the quality setting means what it says.
Batch ZIP Packaging
Bundles all converted JPEGs into an organized ZIP archive.

Frequently Asked Questions

HEIC (High Efficiency Image Container) is the format iPhones have saved photos in by default since iOS 11. It is Apple’s version of HEIF, compressed with HEVC (the H.265 video codec), which stores a photo in roughly half the space of a comparable JPEG. The catch is support: Windows needs extra extensions to open it, and many websites and older apps refuse it, which is why converting a HEIC to JPG is the usual fix when a photo has to be shared or uploaded.

Drop the whole selection into the dropzone — up to 50 photos, 100 MB each — and download the results as a single ZIP. To be accurate about how it runs: the photos are decoded one after another rather than in parallel, with a progress readout telling you which one is in flight, because a HEIC decode is memory-hungry and running fifty at once would exhaust the tab. A photo that fails to decode is skipped with its reason listed, and the rest still complete.

Settings, then Camera, then Formats, then choose Most Compatible instead of High Efficiency. New photos are captured as JPEG from that point on. It is worth knowing the trade-off rather than just flipping it: HEIC genuinely stores a comparable photo in roughly half the space, so Most Compatible costs storage. Many people leave High Efficiency on and convert only the photos they need to send somewhere, which is what this tool is for. The setting does not affect photos already taken.

85 to 90 is the sensible range. The HEIC has already discarded detail, so the conversion is a second lossy pass and pushing the slider low stacks visible artifacts on top of ones you cannot see yet. Above roughly 92 the file grows quickly for no perceptible gain. If the photos are destined for email or a web upload, leave quality at 85 and reduce the dimensions instead — that saves far more than a lower quality setting and costs less visible detail.

A single still image — the key frame. A Live Photo is a HEIC still plus a separate short video file, and only the still is inside the .heic you are converting, so there is no motion to carry across. Bursts behave the same way: each frame you exported converts as its own photo. If the moving part matters, it lives in the accompanying video file and needs a video tool rather than an image converter.